Durian. A strange, strange food experience

One of Malaysia’s most heralded traditions is cultivating and eating durian fruit. Coming from the States, I had never heard of this mysterious “King of Fruits” before journeying to Southeast Asia, and what I did hear made me quite curious…No durian allowed in taxis or hotel rooms; the king of fruits is also the STINKIEST; durian is mildly addictive; old or pregnant people and those with heart conditions shouldn’t eat it because it raises blood pressure; definitely don’t drink alcohol with durian because it increases the burp and smell aftereffects; mangosteen is the best accompaniment. With all of these dire warnings how could a naive Westerner possibly attempt the spiky, smelly durian without regretfully bilious results? The mixed reviews of durian I’d received – everything from Oh, I just can’t stop eating it once it’s in season! to God, the most awful thing I’ve ever tasted, like spoiled custard in a public toilet! also weren’t helping the matter.

To the rescue of our durian dilemma sprang a set of my husband’s coworkers, who love durian and go durian tasting every year. They head over to a friend’s place to sample the species that are in season and buy tubs of flesh to bring home as prized trophies for their families.


Hoping it would be resemble something like wine-tasting in the Oregon countryside, but knowing that it most definitely would not be, we joined the group. 


After crossing the spine of Penang through the jungle forest full of durian, we arrived at the house of our host. A second-generation durian farmer, he cultivates the fruit to sell to friends, family and a few select shops. His fruits were of the best quality and an extensive variety, so I knew we couldn’t possibly be in better hands for the ultimate durian experience. The group eagerly awaited his knifing and prying open of several different types of fruit before diving in. 

With great relish and the enthusiasm of confirmed durianophiles, they explained the 10 different species we could taste and their respective characteristics: D600 is creamy, sweet and the flesh is very yellow; Kunpoh is a bit bitter, more orange in color and has a licorice-like flavor; D14 has big horns on the husk with thick, sweet flesh; Red Prawn usually has fine horns on the husk with sweet flesh that has a citrus-like flavor; Horlor is sweet and its flesh is a little drier and less creamy.  

I could go on and on, but I really couldn’t taste more than these 4 or 5. My stomach was so full and I was becoming a little nauseous. Plus, I didn’t really like it. At all. Well, the Red Prawn Durian was OK, but the smell, texture and taste of all the durian was overtaking my senses. Where was the fabled mangosteen when I needed one?  

One of most eager durian tasters of the day was this little girl. With durian smeared all over her face and fingers, she was happy as a clam!

Needless to say, we didn’t bring home a tub of flesh, and I doubt I’ll be eating durian again. But other expats tell me that the taste would get better with my second or third attempt to eat it. Really, they say, it will! I’m not convinced. Frankly, the spoiled custard in the public toilet might taste better.